JOEJOURNEYS: September 2012

September 27, 2012

First Cabin Tokyo Haneda - Review

An alternative option instead of staying at a hotel, First Cabin is a capsule style private room located in Terminal 1 of Tokyo Haneda Airport, perfect for early morning flights, but also available for hire for a few hours, or day use, if you have a long wait for a connecting flight.

I opted for the First Class Cabin of 4.2 square metres, instead of the Business Class Cabin of 2.5 square metres. Divided into men and women areas, once inside I was pleasantly surprised to find a modern clean space with rows of cabins. My cabin Y08 had a double bed, small table and 32' flat screen TV. On the bed towels are folded, headphones for watching TV (so you don't disturb others), a dental kit, and branded pajamas to wear. Even a special adapter is supplied for charging your electronics as others are strictly prohibited due to fire regulations. There is also a safety box for storing valuables under your bed since cabins do not have a door and do not lock for safety reasons, instead pulling on the vertical shutters ensures your privacy.

Extra facilities include PC stations, battery charger for mobiles and laptops, lounge with a separate smoking room, vending machines that offer soft drinks, alcohol, snacks, bread and even noodles. A self-service laundry, bathhouse, showers, and a coin operated massage chair which I especially enjoyed in the spa area.

First Cabin is a well thought out experience and am very impressed by its function and facilities, a great value stay with all the amenities of a hotel, in a cabin style room conveniently located within the airport terminal.

Note: First Cabin is located in Terminal 1 of Tokyo Haneda Airport, not Terminal I (i) the international terminal. When I left First Cabin at 4:30am found myself locked-in the domestic terminal, thanks to a security guard I was escorted outside and luckily found the only passing vehicle, a taxi, and took the short ride to the international terminal in time to catch my very early morning flight.

Major religions in Japan - what to do when visiting shrines

The two main religions of Japan are Shinto, the native religion based around nature and multiple gods, and Buddhism, imported from India through Korea and China.

Shintoism

The native religion of Japan is Shinto, and the word 'Shinto' means 'way of the gods'. There are many kami (gods) and they often take the form of things close to life and nature such as trees, mountains, rivers, wind, rain, and fertility. People also become kami after they die and are worshipped as ancestral gods by their relatives.

In Shinto, people are believed to be essentially good. Therefore, the evil people do is caused by evil spirits. As a result, the purpose of most Shinto rituals is to keep away evil spirits by prayer, purification, and offerings to the kami.

Shinto is deeply rooted in the history of the Japanese. During the Meiji Period (1868-1912), Shinto was officially recognized as state religion but after World War II the state and the Shinto religion were officially separated.

Visiting a Shinto Shrine (jinja)

Shinto shrines are the homes of kami and therefore places 0f worship. Shrines are visited during special yearly events such as 'oshogatsu' (New Year's holiday) and festivals. People also visit shrines to pay respect to kami and pray for good fortune.

Throughout the year there are countless festivals held all over Japan to celebrate such events as the coming farming season, the harvest or important local historical events. Some festivals are small, local festivals while others are huge and attract people from all over Japan.

How should you behave when visiting a shrine?

Not much different than visiting a church or cathedral, visitors are expected to behave respectfully and to dress appropriately. Near the shrines entrance you will find a purification fountain. Pick up the ladle lying over the small well, fill it with the water provided, and rinse both hands. Then transfer some water into your cupped hand, rinse your mouth and spit the water beside the fountain. You are not supposed to drink the water directly from the ladle. Many people however only wash their hands or simple do not perform this purification ritual.

At the offering hall, throw a coin (any amount will do) into the offering box, bow deeply twice, clap your hands twice, bow deeply once more and pray for a few seconds. If there is some type of gong, use it before praying in order to 'wake up' the gods.

Visitors are usually allowed to take pictures at shrines, but watch for signs banning photography. Sacred objects representing the kami are stored in the inner chamber of the shrine where they cannot be seen except on very special occasions.

Buddhism

In the 6th Century, Buddhism made its way into Japan through Korea and China. Unlike Shintoism, Buddhism has a founder, Gautama Siddhartha, and the religion is based his teachings. At first, there were some conflicts between Buddhism and Shintoism, but eventually the followers of both religions learned to live together in relative harmony.

Throughout history Buddhism gained political influence; during the 8th Century, it was this influence that prompted the move of Japan's capital from Nara to Kyoto (to escape the overbearing Buddhist political influence in the former capital.)

The first branch of Buddhism introduced to Japan was Mahayana Buddhism but this was soon followed by other sects of Buddhism from China such as the Tendai sect (805 AD), the Shingon sect (806 AD) and the Zen sect (1195 AD). Other popular sects like Jodo (1175 AD), Jodo-Shinshu (1224 AD) and Nichiren (1253) developed in Japan as well.

Today in Japan about 90 million people consider themselves Buddhist but religion does not strongly affect people's everyday life, except on certain occasions like funerals.

Visiting a Buddhist Temple (otera)

As with Shinto shrines, Buddhist temples are places of worship and visitors should behave respectfully and dress appropriately. Every town in Japan has a temple. Some cities like Kyoto have thousands of temples.

Visitors can show their respect at the temple by throwing a coin (any amount will do) into the offering box in front of the main hall and then quietly saying a short prayer. When entering temple buildings, as a sign of respect you may be required to take off your shoes. Leave your shores on the shelves at the entrance or take them with your in plastic bags provided by some temples.

At some temples, visitors burn incense in large burners. The smoke from the incense burners is believed to have healing power or to make you more intelligent.

Temple shops display sacred Buddhist objects which you can purchase. Photography is usually permitted on the temple grounds. It is not allowed indoors at some temples.

Sources: Japanese Guest Houses

September 25, 2012

Hotel Century Southern Tower Tokyo - Review

The main feature of staying at Hotel Century Southern Tower is that all 375 guest rooms are located from the 22nd to 35th floor, and offers fabulous views of the skyline of Tokyo.

A double room was a good size, possibly the biggest room I had in all of Japan, with high standards, this was the most luxurious stay I had while visiting. The location itself is ideal as is only steps away from the southern exit of Shinjuku Station, a great base for exploring Tokyo as well within walking distance to what is known as the entertainment district.

The most impressive feature is definitely the window and the view, with a wide aspect, the skyline by day was less impressive, but by night you almost don't want to leave your room as the view just becomes stunning watching the sunset over the city (if you have a west facing room).

However, you do pay more to stay at Hotel Century Southern Tower but in return you get an outstanding service and view. With in room wifi (rare in Japan), large bed, decent room, great bathroom, and spotless interiors.

Hotel Century Southern Tower is a good option is your sharing or traveling as two. I used it as a treat to end my trip to Japan, and will always remember sitting in my room with the lights out, sipping my sake, looking out at the twinkling city lights below.

September 24, 2012

Staying in a Japanese Guest House or Ryokan

Staying in a ryokan, a Japanese inn, is one of the best ways to connect with Japan and the rich culture. Each ryokan is unique and is generally family owned and operated. This means that the service you receive will be different from inn to inn.

When you arrive at the ryokan you may be asked to take off your shoes at the entrance and put on slippers, which are sused for walking around inside the ryokan, your shoes will be placed in the entrance when you want to go outside. If you want to take a short walk near the ryokan, you can also wear the geta (wooden clogs), which are sometimes provided for guests.

A room in a ryokan is in Japanese style with tatami flooring (reed mats). Your room may contain some or all of the following, depending on the style and design, and expense of the ryokan.

agari-kamachi - after opening the door guests step into this small area and take off their slippers (do not wear your slippers on the tatami)
shoji - sliding Japanese doors that separate the agari-kamachi from the room
tatami - reed mat flooring
zataku - low wooden table
zabuton - sitting cushions
futon - sleeping quilt
tokonoma - ornamental alcove built into the wall, used for placing flower vases and hanging scrolls
oshiire - a closet for futon sleeping quilts
engawa - enclosed sitting area separated from the room by shoji

During your stay, a yukata or cotton robe may be provided for you to wear in your room, around the ryokan, and if you want, you can wear it together with your geta if you want to take a short walk. You put the yukata on just like a robe, but make sure you wrap it overnight, the other way is reserved for deceased.

Bathing is very important part of Japanese culture. Baths are for soaking in, not for cleaning yourself. You must wash your body and completely rinse off all soap before entering the bath. The same bath water is shared by all bathers and it is important to keep it clean. Before dinner is a good time to take a bath. Be careful as these baths can be very hot. Japanese baths can be best thing to relax after a long day of sightseeing.

When seated at a low Japanese table on tatami mat flooring it is considered polite to sit seiza, which is when you sit with your legs tucked directly beneath you. If this is not possible or too uncomfortable it is fine to sit cross-legged. Most Japanese can only sit in seiza for 20 minutes or less. You may also ask for a special backrest which is a chair without legs.

Your dinner will be served either in your room or in the dining room. Generally the multi-course dinner will be served all at once and there will be more than enough to fill the largest for appetites.

Dinners were first offered at ryokans starting back in the Edo period 1603-1867, when warlords were required to travel every other year between their domain and Edo (modern Tokyo). The Shogun, who lived in Edo, set up 5 major roads to make travel easier. Along the roads stations were established where travelers could get food and rest at ryokans. In the beginning ryokan did not offer dinner so Young samuai would wander the streets doing what young men do. When ask why they were wandering the streets they would reply that they were just looking for something to eat. Sometimes problems occurred, so as a way to get everyone off the street the Shogun required that all ryokans serve dinner. This solved the problem and started a tradition where ryokans served dinner. For many Japanese the dinner is the most important part of their stay at a ryokan

After a good night sleep you will have breakfast, generally served in the dining room and is perfectly acceptable to wear your yukata.

You will not be charged until you check out. Keep in mind, because most ryokans are small and family owned there may be curfews to consider.

A post by Joe Mendonca
See: Fuijto Ryokan - Tsumago Japan

Fujioto Ryokan - Traditional Japanese Inn

Located in Tsumago, surrounded by Japanese style gardens. The inn's restaurant serves famous local cuisine that has been enjoyed since the time of the Samurai and Shogun.

The Menu
Tasting plate of local specialities
Grilled Trout (Char)
Shinsyo
Salmon Sashimi
Hoba-miso
Shinsyu Beef Steak
Seasonal Soured Pickles
Seasonal Boiled Vegetables
Tempura
Local chicken Osuimono soup
Gohei-mochi
Today's Dessert

Non of the rooms have en-suite bathroom facilities, and in the traditional Japanese fashion, bathing and toilet facilities are shared. It has a Hinoki Bath, made from the famous scented Kiso Valley Cypress wood.

Photos of Fujioto Ryokan, Tsumago Japan 2012 © Joe Mendonca

Tsumago Post Town has been carefully preserved to capture the atmosphere and lifestyle of the Nakasendo towns visited by the Daimyo and his entourage during the Edo Period. Tsumago s 5 minutes by taxi and 10 minutes by bus from Nagiso station on the Chou line, 25 minutes by bus from Magome post town, and 4 hours from Tokyo by car/train

Links:
Fujioto Ryokan
Fujioto Ryokan - Tripadvisor

September 23, 2012

Tsumago - Magome Trail - Kiso Valley

A well maintained trail about 8 km long between Magome and Tsumago of the former Nakasendo route that ran along the Kiso Valley and connected Tokyo with Kyoto during the Edo Period.

Passing through the countryside and alongside the houses and fields of local residents. A walk along the Magome-Tsumago trail is a highly enjoyable part of visiting the Kiso Valley. From Magome to Tsumago involves less uphill walking than the opposite direction.

During the Edo period there were five roadways that connected Edo (modern day Tokyo) and outlying regions. The Nakasendo linked Edo and Kyoto and ran through central Japan. It had 69 posting stations of which Magome-juku was the 43rd. A walk though Magome-juku will transport you back to the Edo period, some 300 years ago.

Video of Nagasendo Trail, Magome to Tsumago, Japan 2012 © Joe Mendonca

Photos of Nagasendo Trail, Japan 2012 © Joe Mendonca

Tsumago - Japan
Fujioto Ryokan - Traditional Japanese Inn

September 20, 2012

Daiwa Roynet Hotel Kyoto - Review

Just a 5 minute walk on the south side of Kyoto Station in a residential area, Daiwa Roynet Hotel is modern and excellent value, and well located for taking advantage of the easy transport links nearby for exploring Kyoto and beyond.

Though not in the centre of the city, it is within access of transport links including Kyoto Station (which is in itself a destination), bus terminal, and only two metro stops away from the heart of the shopping district and entertainment district.

Daiwa Roynet Hotel was an excellent base, and its room and hotel exceeded expectations, with in-room wifi (rare in Japan), fridge, slippers, kettle and even a trouser press. There are plenty of restaurants nearby and standard vending machines as found throughout Japan.

A standard double room is typically 15.8 square metres (171 square feet), enough for one person but a squeeze when there is two in a room, though this is a norm found throughout most Japan hotels.

I wouldn't hesitate to stay again at Daiwa Roynet Hotel as it was exceptional value for the quality of the hotel, room and location, but if you prefer to stay closer to the centre then this isn't for you, but you will have to open your wallet more to do so.

September 19, 2012

Hachikō the Dog - Tale of Love and Loyalty

Hachikō was present at its unveiling of a bronze statue in his likeness, erected at Shibuya Station in Tokyo in April 1934. The Hachikō statue attracts thousands of dog lovers locally and from around the world who come to pay homage to the canine who has become a symbol of loyalty and friendship.

Hachikō

Adopted by Professor Eisaburo Ueno, an Akita ken puppy born in 1923. He took his dog, Hachikō to Tokyo when he became a professor at the Imperial University. Every day Hachikō accompanied the professor to the railway station and waited for his return. In 1925, the professor died while at work and did not return home, but Hachikō came to the same spot at the appointed time every day, for 9 years, and waited for his return until its own death on March 8, 1935.

The story of the politics surrounding the statue when it was originally made and arguments regarding how the dog should be depicted are quite interesting. It was originally made in 1934 when Japanese militarism was on the rise.

The floppy ear was an issue when it was first made. An expert on Japanese breeds insisted that Hachikō must have two pointy ears (not one floppy one) because he must at all costs be a completely "pure" Japanese dog. Only "foreign" dogs would have a floppy ear, and foreign dogs were thought to be the source of bringing "impurities" into Japanese breeds. The Hachiko story was made into a major piece of Fascist propaganda during the late 30s. After the war when the statue was remade (the first one was melted down to make bullets during the war), the artist went back to his original model and made the current statue with the floppy ear. (The real Hachikō of course did have one floppy ear.)

The new statue, which was erected in August 1948, still stands and is an extremely popular meeting spot. The station entrance near this statue is named "Hachikō-guchi", meaning "The Hachikō Entrance/Exit", and is one of Shibuya Station's five exits.

Last known photo of Hachikō
- pictured with his owner's wife Yaeko Ueno
(front row, second from right), and station staff
in mourning in Tokyo on March 8, 1935.

Hachikō's stuffed and mounted remains are kept at the National Science Museum of Japan in Ueno, Tokyo. His monument is in Aoyama cemetery in Minatoku, Tokyo.

The exact spot where Hachikō waited in the train station is permanently marked with bronze paw-prints and text in Japanese explaining his loyalty.

Each year on April 8, Hachikō's devotion is honored with a solemn ceremony of remembrance at Tokyo's Shibuya railroad station. Hundreds of dog lovers often turn out to honor his memory and loyalty.

Sources:
Wikipeida - Hachikō
Hachi: A Dog's Tale (2009)

September 17, 2012

Hotel Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku - Review

A very nice hotel near Shinjuku Station, making this a great base for staying and getting around Tokyo. The hotel is modern and well maintained, but like most hotels in Japan and Asia, space is never waisted, a standard double room is typically 15.8 square metres (171 square feet), enough for one person to stay comfortably, but a squeeze when there is two in a room. If your traveling with someone consider paying more to get a deluxe room, but holidays are not meant to be spent in a hotel.

Standards were high and service excellent, if you book directly with the hotel you may find a special offer if staying more than two nights, which includes breakfast buffet that has a mix of Japanese and western food.

Though the Hotel Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku claims complimentary high speed internet access, this is only through a wired connection, and no wifi available throughout the hotel (as of 2012), though this is something I found common when searching for hotels in Japan.

In terms of price and value, Hotel Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku delivered above expectations. Its location is enough worth staying here, and the standards are high, with nice in-room touches such a slippers and even a sleeping gown/robe.

Hotel Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku was a great choice for exploring Tokyo. Thumbs up!

September 16, 2012

Club World on British Airways

One of the best things that could happen to anyone is getting an upgrade on a long haul flight, such was the case when I flew from London to Tokyo on British Airways when I was upgraded to Club World.

With a better seat that fully reclines and delivers a fully rested arrival, big screen for watching and catching up with movies, more storage and better meals, Club World offers a traveler a complete flight experience with all the perks.

If your arriving into Heathrow Terminal 5 with British Airways and flying Club World or in First, you also get an arrivals Fast Track Pass to quickly get through a dedicated border control. As well, British Airways has a Galleries Arrivals Lounge with showers, prepared breakfasts, a spa, and even will press your suit or shirts. Nice touch.

I must admit I rather liked flying in Club World, who wouldn't?

September 8, 2012

Globus Hotel Review - Florence Italy

Located near the Florence train station and only 10 minute walk into the center, Globus Hotel is basic and clean, ideally located for exploring this small pedestrian friendly city.

Clean room, free wifi, free continental breakfast, in-room mini/bar/fridge, air conditioned rooms, and friendly staff. It serves its purpose and is excellent value for a short stay in Florence.

There are a few things that did lower my score, but I can't complain about my overall stay. My room (208) was at the back of the building and when the central air system turned on was like a rocket taking off, though after a few loud burst soon adjusted to the sound. The in room TV was small and the sound poor and tinny - however your visiting this fabulous city so staying in your room is just for relaxing - this is not a city to be watching TV in your room.

Overall it met my needs for a short break, and for the price was a great deal for a stay in Florence. It is no frills but clean, a good budget option for a short city break in a fabulous city.

Links:
Globus Hotel - Venere.com
Globus Hotel - Reviews on Tripadvisor

A Wedding in Florence - Francesca and Rudy

I am so honoured to have been invited to attend the wedding of Francesca and Rudy in Florence Italy on September 8, 2012. For those that couldn't make it, below are short videos that record that day.

Watch this video, a short trailer of A Wedding in Florence Trailer.

An this is a complete video documenting this very special day;

Watch this video, A Wedding in Florence - Francesca and Rudy.